Camping is great fun - with a bit of planning and the right equipment. Use this handy guide to help you get the right kit together for that festival, or that expedition.

For a handy printable checklist of camping essentials, simply click on the link below:

http://www.sainsburys.co.uk/assets/www/pdf/Camping_Guide.pdf

Before you buy, think how many people you'll need to accommodate. Will you require extra space for equipment, your backpack and luggage or tools? Would you benefit from extra space or an extra 'room'?

This can be a challenge, wherever in the world you like to camp. If you want to use a tent in hot and cold conditions, make sure it is suitable for all four seasons. Here's a guide:

Wind - you'll need a firm skeleton with multiple guy ropes and an aerodynamic shell.

Rain - look for a waterproof flysheet and a bathtub or bucket ground sheet or flooring that has high enough sides to protect against ground water. Condensation will be an issue, so look for good ventilation and splash-proof peak vents.

Hydrostatic head - this is the measure of a material's ability to repel water - a theoretical ability to withstand the pressure of a column of water - measured in mm.

Most tents sold in the UK will have a hydrostatic head measurement of 1,500mm, well over the minimum 800mm that is needed for it to be sold as waterproof. For very wet conditions, look out for tents of 2,000 mm.

Snow - bright coloured flysheets in red or orange will stand out in the snow - a very important safety consideration. Some tents have snow flaps and vents that guarantee ventilation even when the tent is partially snowed in. You'll also need special snow stakes to fix the tent down.

Sun - a light-coloured or white flysheet with UV protection is helpful. If camping in the desert, remember that nights can be bitterly cold. You'll also need T-stakes to anchor the tent in sandy or soft conditions.

Insects - for serious protection against mosquitoes and other winged nuisances, you'll need a full mesh canopy. To keep the occasional mosquito at bay, look for mesh covered openings and windows.

Some tents pitch themselves! Click on this link to see an easy-up tent in action:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lJcBlsLwBTg

Tents fall into two main categories - family and backpacking or hiking - depending on portability. Within these categories, you'll find other descriptions such as 'lightweight', 'compact', 'mountain' or 'festival' that will give you further clues as to use and suitability.

Backpacking/hiking/trekking tents

Lightweight and compact these are small so they can be carried longer distances. They're designed to take just minutes to erect and take down, for maximum convenience on your journey.

Family tents

Larger and heavier than hiking tents, these are designed with space and comfort in mind. Ideal for longer periods at a campsite, they're meant to be pitched and left up for several days at a time, so erection and striking times are considerably longer. Family tents offer features such as separate 'rooms', luggage storage compartments, and even 'porch' sections, depending on price.

Ridge or A-frame - these 'old school' triangular shape tents have a horizontal pole across the top. Cheap and cheery, today they're more for traditionalists or children than serious campers, but are ideal for festivals.

Dome tents - easy to pitch, these consist of support poles crossing each other to form one or more domes, covered by the tent fabric. A spacious design, family tents often follow this form.

Tunnel tents - using fewer poles, these tents are lighter in weight and designed for high performance on the move. They generally require the use of guy ropes and aren't suitable for extreme weather conditions.

Geodesic tents - a relation of the dome-style tents, these have an aerodynamic shape for resisting extreme weather conditions and are tough and resilient. Favoured by expeditioners and mountaineers, they are exceptionally stable. They use crossed poles and some feature a self-supporting design to be used without guy ropes if conditions allow.

Vis-à-vis - a French variation of tunnel, dome and frame tents, the bedrooms are separated by a large central living area.

Yurt - an Asian tent with a wooden lattice frame covered by canvas, felt or animal skin. A luxury, left-field option.

Tipi - originally Native American, these shelters are conical in form and afford their inhabitants a view of the sky through the central hole.

Flysheet

The outer layer of the tent. It provides protection for everything inside and is typically waterproof with taped seams. It can be made from a variety of materials. If your tent is single-layer, make sure the flysheet is a waterproof and breathable laminate.

Inner tent

Typically made from light, breathable fabrics, this is the part of the tent immediately inside the flysheet.

Tent poles

These are either bendy or rigid. Bendy ones are lighter and more flexible. Rigid ones are more heavy-duty for load bearing.

Steel - usually painted or plated to stop corrosion, these are rigid and heavy weight.

Aluminium - these are strong, yet lightweight and used in larger tents. Their rigidity can cause them to buckle and break in strong winds. They are usually more expensive than steel poles.

Fibreglass - lightweight, these are flexible and relatively strong. However, cheaper versions can splinter and are not high performance.

Guy ropes 

Made from synthetic cord, these won't slacken or shrink if they get wet. Fixed to the main outer tent or flysheet with a metal or plastic ring, an adjuster lets you set and keep them at the right tension.

Guys usually follow the seams of the tent for stability, and shouldn't cross each other. Check guys regularly, especially in windy conditions, to ensure the right tension.

Groundsheets

Available separately and as part of the tent, this is the main protection between you and the ground. Groundsheets should be waterproof and seam-sealed. If it is stitched to the inner tent, it should be of 'bucket' or 'bathtub' design with sides of at least 10cm.

Tent pegs

Most tents come with simple steel pegs that are hooked at one end. But depending on the weather conditions, and the type of ground, you may want to consider other options. You'll need to balance the requirements for minimal weight and bulk, with the need to hold down your tent in extreme conditions.

Steel pegs - the strongest and heaviest peg for their size. Hardened steel pegs are useful for stony ground. Pegs pressed from sheet steel provide better hold than thin steel pins - but watch out for sharp edges when removing them from the earth.

Plastic pegs - lightweight and cheap, these have a large cross section for greater resistance to strong wind. Avoid cheap versions that can snap easily.

Alloy pegs - lightweight, but can bend easily in hard ground or with a clumsy mallet.

Titanium pegs - usually expensive, these are ultra-lightweight and durable.

Screw pegs - come in plastic and steel, and are screwed into the ground using a small hand drill. They provide excellent grip in soft ground and are useful in high winds or stormy conditions.

Biodegradable pegs - these reusable pegs will break down if accidentally left in the soil. Made from materials like wheat and potatoes, they're ideal if you're really eco-conscious.

Sleeping bags - probably the most important factor in getting a good night's sleep, there's a huge choice available for every need and season.

Polyester cotton blend - lighter than cotton, it is just as strong and is usually coated to repel water.

Nylon - the cheapest and most expensive tents are made from nylon; the difference is in the coatings, which may be acrylic, polyurethane (PU) or silicone.

Often the fine weave of a nylon tent is reinforced with a larger 'rip stop' pattern that uses thicker threads. This prevents a tear 'laddering' (think ladies' tights) if there's a small tear in the fabric.

Nylon is attacked by UV light. Special coatings reduce this effect, but long exposure on bright days or at high altitudes will lessen the life of a nylon tent.

Polyester - tougher than nylon, it doesn't shrink or bag when wet. It's also more resistant to the damaging effects of sunlight than nylon. Polyester tents are treated with a variety of different coatings, for which tent manufacturers use different names. Look for breathable coatings that allow air in but keep moisture out.

PVC-coated canvas tents - typically used for trailer tents and larger frame models, these are coated with Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) to waterproof and strengthen them. Condensation can be a problem, which is why ventilation is important.

Cotton - don't panic if your new, uncoated cotton tent leaks, it's a process called 'weathering'. Once it's been through a shower or three, the cotton fibres will swell and become waterproof. Coated cotton tents don't need weathering, although the coating will remove the natural breathability of the fabric, so they will need airing. Much heavier than synthetics, cotton isn't recommended for mobile activities.

Never use naked flame inside a tent

Keep a fire bucket filled with water, earth or sand outside your tent - a traditional 'just in case' remedy

If you pitch your tent on a slope, keep the door of your tent downhill, to prevent water entering

Avoid pitching your tent on marshy ground or in a hollow.